If you’ve got wavy, hard to manage hair then it’s likely you’re one of the ever growing number that reach for the hair straighteners on an almost daily basis to keep it under control. Frequent straightening can be oh so tiresome though, and you may have considered a more permanent option. With a number of chemical straightening processes on offer, which one should you go for and what exactly is the different between them?
Hair relaxers
This is probably the oldest of the chemical permanent hair straightening methods still used widely today, especially for more delicate Afro hair. Hair relaxing involves applying an alkaline chemical solution to the hair that breaks down the disulfide bonds within its structure that cause the kinks and curls. Once these bonds are broken and the hair is left straightened, a neutralising solution is applied to set the hair this way.
So what are the downsides of this process? You need to bear in mind that any chemical process that penetrates the hair is going to cause some damage to its condition – yes, it’s true that even the best ceramic hair straighteners will cause their own damage, but the risk is far higher when you’re exposing your hair to strong chemicals. There are a number of different relaxer formulations available, so make sure your stylist uses the gentlest one possible for your hair type. Also bear in mind that while this process will relax the curls in your hair and leave it a lot straighter, it doesn’t promise poker straight locks.
Japanese straightening systems
One of the newest types of hair straightening systems around is Japanese straightening, also known as thermal reconditioning. These systems claim to not only leave your hair super poker straight, but to be gentler on your hair and improve its condition. How does it work? It uses the same general process as hair relaxing, but tends to use the gentlest available alkaline chemicals to break down the disulfide bonds within the hair. There’s also an extra step before the neutralising solution is applied – special hair irons are smoothed over every section of the hair, leaving it amazingly straight once the chemicals are washed away.
So, permanent fantastically straight hair? What are the downsides? For a start this is a very lengthy process, so expect to be in the salon for hours. It’s also not a cheap option so if you keep going back to sort out your regrowth the costs will soon stack up. There are plenty of great reviews of Japanese straightening systems, but despite the claims that it’s really gentle on the hair, as with any chemical process there’s a real risk of significant damage. Always go to a fully trained stylist who can carry out the process gently, causing the minimum damage possible.
Brazilian straightening
Brazilian straightening, also known as keratin treatment, is another fairly new process used to straighten hair. It doesn’t claim to give permanent results but does claim to be gentle, improving the condition of your hair and leaving it shiny and much straighter. It doesn’t alter the internal structure of the hair – instead a keratin formula is applied to the hair, then straightening irons are used to bond the keratin to your hair.
Although you can find positive reviews from many happy customers who have tried out this process, there are serious warnings about the discovery of high levels in formaldehyde within a lot of the keratin formulas used. It’s used as an active ingredient to help the keratin to bond with the hair, and has been found in levels far higher than recommended 0.2% concentration. Inhalation of formaldehyde fumes carries serious health risks, so if you are considering trying out this process it’s really important that you double check the ingredients used in the keratin solution to make sure it’s safe for use.